Cult-Favorite Cameroonian Pop-Up Is Now a Restaurant in East Oakland

The first and best West African meal I ever ate was handed to me from the dim recesses of a crowded Oakland bar: a paper plate piled as high as you can imagine with smoky fried tilapia, ginger-spiced yams, stewed black-eyed peas, fragrant jollof rice, and peanut-spinach stew (ndole) — Cameroon’s national dish. Malong Pendar,…